Day 19: Monday, September 12

Happy Chuseok!

As I previously mentioned, I was privy to an extra-long weekend off of work because of the holiday Chuseok.  Chuseok is known as the Korean version of Thanksgiving Day and it has the same amount of food and activity-based traditions that we have in Canada.  The holiday stems from the custom of Koreans thanking their ancestors –through Charye, memorial services –for the year’s harvest and sharing their abundance with family and friends.  Giving that everyone is getting together with their family, many Koreans return to their hometowns in countryside; this left subways and shops around Seoul far less busy than they usually would be –yay!  Unfortunately for above-ground travellers, Korea’s traffic is atrocious because the already strained highways become packed with families who are wanting to visit family and their ancestral graves to fulfill their familial duties.  Koreans are required to participate in Seongmyo (visiting ancestral graves) and Beolcho (clearing the weeds around the grave).  

Other Chuseok traditions include wearing the Hanbok (traditional dress) and buying new clothes for every member of the household; this custom is known as Chuseokbim.  The idea of giving is very apparent around Chuseok as the grocery stores prepare gift packs and Wonderland’s staff room makes way for oodles of fruit and cakes that the parents have brought to give thanks for their children’s education.  Even the foreign teachers received gifts from the principals: delicious (I hope) plum wine!

Day 18: Sunday, September 11

A Touristy Trip to the National Museum of Korea

Despite my original Chuseok plans to go visit my friend Emily in Ulsan, fate (and the sold-out Korail trains) would have it that I stay in Gwacheon and explore surrounding areas by subway.  After looking at a couple of different options for touristy activities, Hilary and I agreed that the best idea would be to see what the National Museum of Korea has to offer.  With the city shutting down for Chuseok, Museums and other attractions make it a point to stay open and then take a day off after the holiday –in this case, the Museum will be closed on Wednesday.

The National Museum of Korea also seemed like a great option because is that it is on the subway line that runs through Gwacheon (line #4, which is also known as the light blue line).  So, Hilary and I boarded the subway train at Gwacheon Government Complex, which is a two-minute walk from our apartment block and made our way to the Museum.

Going up the stairs to the National Museum of Korea

Coming up to the Entrance of the Main Exhibition Hall

Front Foyer of the National Museum of Korea

It’s important to note that there are two exhibit halls at the museum.  The main part of the museum has three exquisite floors and offers free admission. The other section is reserved for a special exhibition that changes as often as an exhibition at home would, but the topic did not really appeal to Hilary or I, so we went for the free and easy route... without an English guide (gasp!).  After picking up the pamphlet for English-speakers, Hilary and I headed for the 3^rd floor of the Museum.  Surprisingly, the entrance to each gallery and all of the artefacts were labelled in both Korean and English.

 

On the 3^rd floor, there was the Asia Gallery and the Sculpture & Crafts Gallery that housed my favourite section of the whole museum, the Buddhist Sculptures.  Both galleries were organized into 5 sections, depending on place of origin and/or material of the artefact; India and Southeast Asia, Central Asia, China, the Sinan Shipwreck Collection, Japan, Buddhist Sculpture, Metal Crafts, Celadon, Buncheon Ware and White Porcelain all had their own sections in the galleries.  Overall, there were 600 works in the Sculpture & Crafts Gallery that captured the essence of Korean crafts, and a total of 970 artefacts showing off the “universality and diversity of Asian cultures” in the Asia Gallery.

Buddhist Sculptures

Open Lotus

Fuxi and Nuwa

The explanation for Fuxi and Nuwa... interesting!

Spices from the Sinan Shipwreck Collection

Then, when we arrive on the second floor of the museum, there were two more galleries: the Donations Gallery and the Calligraphy & Painting Gallery.  At the entrance of the Calligraphy & Painting Gallery, there was a live-sized mock-up of a Sarangbang (Scholar’s Studio), with all the typical furniture that one would see in the gentleman’s quarters.  As a part of Korean history and culture, Confucianism has a hierarchal system much like the caste system of India wherein the Scholar was considered to be the highest.  More recently the hierarchy seems inverted so the Scholar has less modern-day worth, but education is still highly valued and the Scholar is still a prominent figure of Korean culture.  Within the Donations gallery, there were nine main contributors, some of which were of Japanese descent and had donated in the hopes of re-establishing positive bonds between Japan and Korea.  Since the 800 artefacts were donated from a variety of private collectors, the Donations Gallery showed a wonderful array of culturally-diverse remnants, ranging from roof-end tiles to bronze helmets, duck-shaped vessels to Buddha heads.  

Buddhist statue and yours truly :D

One of the prettiest Silk Screens in the gallery

Japanese Warrior... accessories not included

Hindu Deities Masks

Finally, we walked down to the 1^st floor to the Prehistory & Ancient History Gallery and the Medieval & Early Modern History Gallery.  While the Neolithic, Palaeolithic and Bronze Age sections of the gallery showcased things that could be on display in Canada (for example, arrowheads), there was approximately 10,000 relics displayed from the Palaeolithic period to the Unified Silla and Balhae periods.  Between the two galleries stood a Ten-Story Pagoda with carvings of traditional Buddhist images.

Gold Crown from the Silla Kingdom, nicely showcased in glass... makes you want to plan a heist doesn't it?

If you're wanting to feel small, I strongly recommend standing beside a ten-story Pagoda.

Last, but not least, Hilary and I began to explore the outdoor exhibits area of the National Museum.  While overlooking the Botanic Garden for Traditional Dyes, it started to,  so we quickly strolled over to the Reflecting Pond to snap a couple of pictures of the Cheonjajeong (pavilion with Celadon Roof Tiles).  Although we were being rained out, we were just happy it didn’t happen earlier, particularly because there was a call for thundershowers all weekend.   

The Reflecting Pond... it's usually more reflective when the sun is at full force.

Day 17: Saturday, September 10

Grocery Shopping in Gwacheon

The first night I was in Gwacheon, I was taking to the nearby grocery story, Kim’s Club.  At the time, I was with my “guardian” Mr. Cho, who is the co-principal of Wonderland, and the items he pointed out weren’t the most appetizing.  I saw some viable food options here and there, but overall, I found myself getting lost in the aisle of oils without any English label in sight.  I was able to find one jar of Peter Pan peanut butter, one bunch of bananas, a ten-pack of yogurt and a big bottle of water.  While the store seemed overwhelming and the options seemed to be few at the time, I had hoped that it was first day jitters that had me concerned about my local mart. 

This is the entrance to Kim's Club, once you've stepped off the escalator.  On the left there are animals you can buy like mice, Guinea pigs, bunnies, turtles and fish for pets.  On the right there is Hilary.

Hilary suggested that she give me a tour of the place one night on our way home from work, and I’m so glad she did.  Not only did she seem to expertly dodge the places of the grocery store that looked and smelled unfamiliar, she led me straight to the goods that would appear on the good ol’ Canadian Food Guide... and some goodies that wouldn’t make the nutritional cut –yum!  I was quickly putting meals together in my head –mostly pasta and rice dishes with some appearances from vegetables –keeping in mind that I am working with a double-burner hot plate.  In 2009-2010, I had the fortunate opportunity to live in a basement apartment with a simple kitchenette, so I more than experienced in the creative cooking department.  Unlike the apartment in the basement, I do not have a microwave or a toaster oven in my current apartment, so it’s just me and my beloved friend hot plate.

My ol' pal, the stove. Joined here by his friend, the drying rack.

Anywho, I shall return to the telling of my most recent Kim’s Club experience.  As I have previously mentioned this weekend is leading into the Chuseok holiday, so there is a lot of preparation taking place in Korean homes.  Part of the Chuseok festivities is a ritual of giving; a gift pack of tuna or spam, a case of fruit (since fruit is expensive, particularly when it is imported), a bundle of rice cake treats, or a set of wine and/or pastries are all excellent presents for Chuseok.  And, that being said, all grocery stores and shops that regularly sell food are packed with Chuseok gift sets.

Rice cake-y treats :D

Just within the entrance to Kim’s Club, there is a Pizza Mart where you can buy whole pizzas for 11,900won (almost $12); I did that in the first week that I was here since I was staying in the motel, but this time, Hilary and I had decided to share a Half & Half Pizza (half Combination Pizza and half Cheese).  You put in an order and about 30 minutes later, your 18inch pizza is all ready to go, wrapped with a bow for easy handling when you opt for takeout.  So, with the extra 30 minutes that Hilary and I have, we tour around Kim’s Club, looking at the stationary section called Morning Glory and I took a couple of photos of the places within Kim’s Club that entertain me the most.

The Pizza Mart

 

 

On the left is the edge of the candy aisle and beverages just a wee bit beyond on the right.  Although Ginger Ale is not available, there is a delightful cider that tastes like the offspring of Ginger Ale and Sprite.

Only $1.40 for a pre-breaded crab, that's still alive and crawls around just as you are walking past.  They are sneaky, particularly when they know you're afraid of them.

Day 16: Friday, September 9

In Itaewon

Friday night is usually the night that the foreign teachers at my school go out and Itaewon was determined as the place to go.  Chad & Sara, Nick& Nicole, Hilary and I traveled on the subway, transferring lines one time, and met up with another ex-teacher of Wonderland, Paul.  The seven of us wandered around the main street which is “lined with about 2,000 shops as well as jazz bars, nightclubs and ethnic restaurants”, according to my travel guide.  Since “this district is popular with both foreign residents and tourists”, the streets looked more like Toronto than the Korean-heavy population of Gwacheon.  In the town where I am living, it seems that the only Caucasian people I see are the foreign teachers I work with at Wonderland; whereas, in Itaewon, there were people of all ethnicity, and the variety was comforting.

We ended up at Scrooge’s pub for dinner –a place that served up fish & chips, had rugby on the TV and a “moose crossing” sign on the bar.  I ordered a GIANT club sandwich with a side of fries for 9,000 won and fell into the Cass trap again, since the Korean beer is less expensive than any soft drink.

Hilary & I at the pub

 After dinner, we went searching for a casual place to waste time since Chad & Sara were meeting their tour bus (headed for Jeju) at 2am.  As an aside, Jeju is the most Southern island of Korea, so the trek there must be reserved for long weekends such as this.  This Monday is Chuseok which is the Korean Thanksgiving and one of the three main holidays in the country, so we have Saturday to Tuesday off from work.  There are a bunch of rituals and costumes that are a part of Chuseok that I will be sure to include in a later post, so for now I will continue with our night out in Itaewon.

 

So, we ended up at Hollywood Bar that featured pool tables, darts and one doggie guest.  I have to mention that the dogs here are all small (mostly to match the size of people’s living spaces) and dogs are both a sign of wealth and affection for the people here.  It is not uncommon to see people carrying their dogs in their hands or allowing their dogs to accompany them to shops or, so it would seem, bars.  Amazingly, two tables over from us, there was a tiny white dog sitting on a barstool calmly for as long as we were there.  The canine spectacle could only be championed by the sheer diversity and flamboyant lights flowing through the streets of Itaewon.